Each garment of the Matariki capsule collection by Lucky Dip is named for one of the stars in the Matariki cluster, plus the father, Rehua. Under the creative direction and sole production of Tuhirangi Blair (Ngāti Whātua, Ngāti Awa, Ngāi Tūhoe), Lucky Dip interrupts the cycle of increasingly fast fashion, with designs created from recycled materials and an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. Find the collection on the ground floor between Pacific Masterpieces and Te Marae Ātea Māori Court.

Tuhirangi Blair offers a unique interpretation of the Matariki star cluster and its significance for Te Ao Māori. Made from repurposed fabrics, this collection reinvents cast-offs, dead stock and material including tents and shower curtains to create one-off pieces and breathe new life into forgotten textiles. Each garment has a whakapapa connected to a star within the cluster and embodies qualities of the star through design characteristics of the garment.  

While the cluster is nine stars, there are ten garments because Tuhirangi included Rehua as a parent along with Matariki.

Matariki

Matariki

Recycled from bed sheets, the meticulously designed collared shirt has multicoloured stripes consisting of yellow, white, blue, pink and purple as the pattern, long sleeves with white cuffs, and a pocket on the right hand side with buttons down the mid front. 

 

“Matariki is connected to well-being and is an omen of good fortune and health. This connection can be found in the saying 'Matariki, huarahi ki te oranga tangata; Matariki, pathway to the well-being of people.' The long sleeve shawl collar references vintage nurse uniforms from the 1960s and the pastel stripe reminded me of the colour palette used at Starship Hospital. The fabric was found in Paihia during my trip to the Far North in 2019.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Waitā

Waitā

The short-sleeved and Italian spread collar shirt has a green and white floral print, and a standard front placket. 

 

“Waitā is connected to the ocean and everything within it. In reference to the connection surfing has with Waitā, this classic Hawaiian shirt just made sense. This interpretation of a classic is given the Lucky Dip treatment with additional front pockets and a cut in a more generous fit. The large bold floral print is taken from a duvet sourced in Whangarei.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Ururangi

Ururangi

A collarless shirt with sleeves that are constructed with brown corduroy, while the body of the shirt is made from multicoloured, striped wool. There is a single inner yoke that is green silk. The front is open but can be pulled together with ties on the inside. 

 

“Ururangi is connected to wind and determines the nature of the winds for the year. For this style I chose to focus on protection from the elements and in this instance a mid-length sleeve cardigan made from a mink blanket. A warm underlayer that can be worn underneath a coat on days when Tawhirimatea is at his most violent. This fabric was sourced from Onehunga.” 


Tuhurangi Blair

Pōhutakawa

Pōhutakawa

The repurposed long-sleeved collared shirt is lavender in colour with green floral patterns. 

 

“Pohutukawa is connected to death and more importantly to those who have passed in the last year. It is the star that is acknowledged during the opening ceremony of the Matariki celebration period where whanau would cry out the names of the recently departed. The classic button-down silhouette was chosen for its connection to formal wear. The hi vis reflective tape found at the left sleeve was in reference to the armbands sports people would wear when making an acknowledgment to someone who had recently passed away. The decision to use a hi vis reflective tape was chosen for its lustrous qualities when exposed to light, similar to that of a star.” 


Tuhurangi Blair

Waipunarangi

Waipunarangi

The long-sleeved jacket has sleeves, hood and a front pocket in solid blue colouring with white draw strings on the hood and the bottom of the jacket. The body of the jacket is a type of tartan, coloured blue and green with thin red lines. 

 

“Waipunarangi is connected to rain and translates to mean ‘water that pools in the sky’. Taking inspiration from vintage British sportswear, a cagoule is a lightweight waterproof rain jacket. Made from a combination of deadstock nylon and a curtain sourced from Paihia, the body is a natural fibre for comfort while the sleeves and hood are synthetic for protection against the rain.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Waitī

Waitī

The denim vest has a front that is made of blue denim with four blue polyester pockets on the front. There are two labels both with 'ACNE' in writing. 

 

“Waiti is connected to freshwater life within streams, lakes and rivers. Continuing the outdoors wear theme, a fly fishing vest was the chosen silhouette. The fabric was sourced from Glen Innes and was an opportunity to introduce more functional apparel into a fashion context.” 


Tuhurangi Blair

Tupuānuku

Tupuānuku

The brightly coloured floral picturesque short-sleeved shirt with a cut away collar also has an over-the-top vest made from the same material. 

 

“Tupuanuku is connected to food from the Earth, with ‘nuku’ being a shortened version of Papatuanuku. This style references the guayabera commonly worn throughout South America. The garment originated due to the need for multiple pockets while collecting guavas. This is a Lucky Dip interpretation of the classic style where the pockets are detachable through the use of a pocket holster with a tie at the back and traditional button closure. This garment is made from a vintage Japanese silk kimono gifted from some friends in Wellington.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Hiwa-i-te-rangi

Hiwa-i-te-rangi

The white net lace shirt with long sleeves has a standard placket with white mother of pearl buttons down the front of the shirt. 

 

“Hiwa-i-te-rangi is connected to prosperity. This cardigan style is made from a white lace curtain sourced from Helensville. Although lace is most often only used within womenswear, I liked the idea of applying it to a less than conventional silhouette. I wanted the wearer to feel aspirational and confident as if they were having a very prosperous year.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Tupuārangi

Tupuārangi

The vest is made of camo denim with two distinctive front pockets. The bottom of the pocket is made from blue polyester and it has a highlighter yellow flap. 

 

“Tupuarangi is connected to food from the Sky. When Matariki appeared in the morning sky during Pipiri it signalled the time to start to harvest kererū. Taking a cue from outdoors wear, the hunting vest brings focus to the connection Matariki has with the harvesting of birds and other elevated food products. This garment was made from a variety of offcuts from previous styles all collected during a trip to Los Angeles.” 


Quote and images by Tuhurangi Blair

Rehua

Rehua

The shirt is longline, has long sleeves and consists of two layers. The first layer is the outer layer and is made of white synthetic material. It has an open double pointed lapel collar and a single yoke. On the front there are four pockets of various sizes and a small white tag label on the left-hand side. There is a French placket with multicoloured buttons. The inner layer is grey cotton. 

 

“Rehua is also connected to health and medicine. Referencing the classic lab coat style worn by doctors, this version is made from a lightweight nylon fabric taken from a deconstructed tent. The internal construction of the garment highlights the fabric's former life. It is important to note that Rehua (a.k.a Antares) is not found within the Matariki star cluster and is commonly known as the Lord of the Stars who had taken Matariki to be his wife.” 


Tuhurangi Blair

From the designer and maker


Transcription of an interview given by Tuhirangi Blair.

Kia ora. My name is Tuhirangi Blair, and I am the maker behind the brand Lucky Dip. Lucky Dip is the study into the form, function and feel of vintage shirting. All garments are made by myself, using repurposed material such as deconstructed tents, curtains, old bedsheets and pre-existing garments. The reason I work with repurposed material is that when a fabric is faded or worn, it already has a history written into it. Embracing the so-called ‘flaws’ and being able to breathe new life in discarded fabric is very appealing to me. There is a certain nostalgia that can be found in each and every Lucky Dip garment.

Last year I was asked to help Viaduct Harbour to curate a series of activations to celebrate the Māori New Year. During the research and development phase of the project I read the book Matariki: The Star of the Year by Dr Rangi Mātāmua. Learning more about the whakapapa of the star cluster prompted me to make the collection. It is believed the star cluster is a family in the heavens and each star plays an integral role in our everyday life. The celestial parents are Rehua and Matariki, who are connected to wellness and medicine. Their children are Pōhutakawa, who represents death; Tupuānuku, food from the earth; Tupuārangi, food from the sky; Waitī, fresh water life; Waitā, salt water life; Ururangi, wind; Waipunarangi, rain; and Hiwa-i-te-rangi, prosperity. The concept was to present my interpretation of the relationship between the stars and the natural world.

The collection consists of ten garments, with each focusing on the star’s unique purpose and meaning: a fly fishing vest for Waitī, a lab coat for Rehua, a guayabera for Tupuānuku and so on. Some connections are a bit abstract and I would prefer the viewer to spend some time with each garment and interpret them as they feel. Each garment comes with its own swing ticket that documents the entire process. This includes the number of hours involved, where the fabric was sourced and where the garment was made. Another feature on every Lucky Dip is the unique hand stamp that documents the style code, production year and size. All fabrics in the collection are sourced from op shops throughout Aotearoa.

Thank you for taking the time to view my work and I hope you enjoy it.

Tuhirangi Blair

About Tuhirangi Blair

About Tuhirangi Blair

Tuhirangi (Tuhi) Blair was born in Helensville in 1991. His iwi are Ngāti Whātua, Ngāti Awa and Ngāi Tūhoe. Tuhirangi graduated from AUT in 2012 with a Bachelor of Design (Fashion), and is the founder and maker behind Lucky Dip. His commitment to expressing Te Ao Māori through his design work follows on from his commitment to an ethical practice in a design environment that has valued profit and fast fashion over environmental and human rights.