coatee

Officer's Coatee, 96th Regiment of Foot

Information prepared by Michael Murrie-Jones, 2005

Summary:

garment type: coatee

model: 1829 Pattern

regiment: 96th Regiment of Foot

colour: scarlet

facing colour: yellow

lining (skirt): white kerseymere

lining (bodice):

collar: Prussian

cuffs: plain round cuffs

lace: gilt

buttons: 96th Officer's Pattern gilt buttons (introduced circa 1830)

rank: Lieutenant-Colonel or Colonel

construction : coatee style; double-breasted with two rows of ten buttons in pairs; waist-length at front; tailed skirt at back; Prussian collar; plain round cuffs; evidence of two regimental buttons at rear of skirt

collar: Prussian collar with two loops (1/3 of collar length) of regimental gilt lace; with small uniform buttons set to rear of each loop; 3 large hooks and eyes at centre front attached with thick white cotton

cuffs: plain round cuffs of yellow facing fabric two and three quarter inches deep; cuffs are slashed with scarlet buttoned flaps consisting of four loops of gilt regimental lace set in pairs [each of which should be set with a regimental button - these are missing; there is a single cloth covered button in yellow facing colour to secure each cuff

skirt: gold lace slashed false pocket flaps on each skirt with four loops of regimental lace set in pairs with two sets of two large regimental buttons on either side [on set on proper lhs is missing]; white kerseymere turnbacks and skirt lining

skirt ornaments: regimental skirt ornaments made from silver and gilt bullion comprising an eight-point star [Order of the Bath style star] surrounding nume5rals '96', also in bullion, on a field of scarlet wool cloth

lining

bodice lining: olive green silk; plain at back and in sleeves; some lines of stitching at side; finely quilted at front; leather lining band around waist

collar lining: fine black cloth, coming away at seams so interior layers visible: black felt and heavy beige sacking enclosing three strips

skirt lining: white kerseymere

buttons:

96th Regiment gilt Officers' Pattern buttons: copper base with a fire gilt (amalgam of gold and mercury) finish; numerals '96' surrounded by a crowned garter with motto: 'HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE'

body: 2 rows of 10 regimental buttons each side at front

collar: X small regimental uniform buttons

cuffs: 4 regimental buttons on loops on either side; 1 cloth button on each cuff

skirt: 2 sets of 2 large regimental buttons on either side [note: 6 buttons only; 1 set missing on lhs]

epaulettes [missing]: plain gold lace straps with bullion tassels 3-1/2 inch deep

completeness: INCOMPLETE

1) epaulettes missing

2) buttons missing as follows: 1 set of skirt buttons; 1 set of cuff buttons and 2 large waist buttons are missing

Dress Regulations - 1846

Infantry of the Line

Coatee – scarlet, with two rows of uniform buttons, ten in each row, in pairs, or at equal distances, according to regimental pattern; the distance between the rows three inches at top, and two inches and a half at bottom; Prussian collar, with two loops and small uniform buttons at each end; plain round cuff, two inches and three quarters deep; scarlet slashed flap on the sleeve, with four loops and small buttons; slashed flap on the skirt, with four loops and large buttons; two large buttons at the waist; white kerseymere turn-backs and skirt lining; regimental skirt ornaments; the collar and cuffs are to be of the colour established for the facing of each regiment; the loops on the collar and flaps are to be gold lace or embroidery, according to the respective pattern established for each regiment, and the entire loop is not to exceed one inch and a quarter in breadth.

Epaulettes – Field Officers – plain gold-lace strap; solid crescent; embroidered badge of the Queen’s cipher: the bullion of Colonel and Lieutenant-Colonel is to be three inches and a half deep; that of Major three inches.

Captains – gold lace straps, with narrow silk stripes, of the colour of the regimental facing; metal crescent; bullion smaller than that of a Major, and two inches and a half deep.

Subalterns – the same as a Captain, except that the bullion is smaller.

Officers of Flank Companies are to wear wings of the pattern prescribed for Light Infantry Regiments. The Grenadiers are to have a grenade on the centre plate instead of a bugle.

ref: W. Y. Carman, Dress Regulations 1846. (London, United Kingdom: Arms and Armour Press, 1971), pp.141-142